How to Raise Chickens: An Easy-to-Follow Guide for Beginners (2024)

Backyards have gone to the birds! With everyone from Jennifer Garner to Carrie Underwood flocking to the trend of raising chickens at home, you too may be ready to become a Mother Hen. While the allure of the backyard chicken lifestyle is easy to see, it’s important to know that it also takes commitment and care. That’s precisely why we’ve compiled this beginner’s guide to raising backyard chickens for eggs.

Here you’ll find answers to all your most pressing chicken questions, including the best size and breeds for a starter flock, precisely how much space you’ll need for that charming chicken coop, and exactly what it’ll cost to get started. Once you’ve got the basics down, you can branch out into the fun stuff, such as charming chicken coop accessories and the best harness for taking your chickens on a walk (really!).

If you’re eager to have farm-fresh eggs at the ready, there’s no need to wing it! Read on to learn how to raise chickens so they’re happy, healthy, and full of pluck.

The short answer: probably so! Chickens are relatively small birds, in turn requiring relatively little space. “You should plan to provide four square feet per chicken in the nesting coop (also called a henhouse), plus 10 square feet per chicken in their enclosed run,” says Country Living veterinarian Dr. Tricia Earley. For a flock of, say, six chickens, that translates to a 6'-by-4' nesting coop plus a 6'-by-10' run. (See below for more scoop on chicken coops.) In reality, the amount of room is rarely the deal breaker for backyard chickens. The bigger question is if they are permitted in your neighborhood. Before you get started, our experts advise you to check with your homeowners’ association or municipality to confirm it’s allowed. Surprisingly, many suburban and urban areas only have restrictions on the number of hens allowed or on the possession of roosters.

Though not as noisy as roosters, who actually crow at all hours of the day, hens aren’t always the silent type. “After they’ve laid their eggs, they will strut around and cackle,” explains but chicken expert and author Lisa Steele. “It’s thought they do this to lure predators away from their nest. But other than that, chickens aren’t terribly loud, and planting a row of tall bushes around the coop or erecting a solid fence can help alleviate much of the noise.”

Raising chickens is not hard, but Lisa says, “As with any pet or livestock, chickens are a serious time commitment and require daily attention.” But, again and again, owners say there’s also a “hen zen” that comes with keeping chickens. Part routine, part respite, starting and ending the day with some fresh air and labor can confer a kind of self-care. For a sample schedule of how much daily work will be involved, here’s Lisa’s round-the-cluck plan for tending your flock:

• Morning: Let chickens out of their coop, giving access to the enclosed run. Give each a quick once-over, looking for bright eyes, red comb and wattles, steady gait, and shiny feathers—all signs of a healthy hen. Then supply fresh food and water, turn over and fluff coop bedding, and check for eggs.
• Afternoon: Check for eggs again and give chickens their daily treat. (Optional.)
• Sundown: Lock hens back inside their nesting coop to protect from predators. During the winter months, they’ll also appreciate scratch grains before bed because digesting them has a warming effect.
• Once a week: Cleaning time! Take a moment to rake the bedding out of the coop and replace with fresh. Also scrub their feed and water dishes.

“A good starter flock size is 5 or 6 hens,” says Lisa. Reason(s) being: you won’t need a coop much larger than a doghouse for this size flock, and, if something should befall one or two birds, there will still be enough to keep each other company. “Chickens definitely need companions,” adds Lisa, who also notes that you should be able to get about three dozen eggs a week from a group this size.

While your eggs may soon be homegrown, your chickens’ diet shouldn’t be. “A commercially prepared layer mash has been formulated by a poultry science nutritionist and will have the appropriate amount of calcium, calories, and protein to keep a hen healthy and ensure a good thick eggshell,” says veterinarian Dr. Victoria Drouet. While occasional treats are fine (mealworms or watermelon will get them clucking!), 90 percent of a chicken’s diet should come from store-bought goods. Plenty of fresh water is also vital and, because eggs are mostly composed of H20, directly tied to egg production. Add a splash of apple cider vinegar a few times a week to prevent bacteria.

Chickens’ needs are simple and somewhat inexpensive, especially when you factor in the return you see on those eggs! But they do require a small investment up front. Female chicks typically cost between $4 to $7 each. (You can get them for even less if you order an “assorted” flock instead of a specific breed.) A 50-pound bag of quality chicken feed costs approximately $25, which a flock of six will go through in about a month. Your biggest cost will be that coveted chicken coop, which can ring in for as little as $250 for a simple, sturdy DIY build (for quality on a budget, Lisa is a proponent of building your own coop over buying a lower-cost assemble-it-yourself coop kit) to upwards of $10,000 for a designer look. And just like any other beloved pet, don’t forget the occasional trip to the vet (find a listing of avian vets near you at tillysnest.com).

From egg production (spoiler alert: No chicken lays eggs every day) to regal plumage, these nine breeds are among the most prized varieties of backyard hens.

• Araucana
• Australorp
• Buff Orpington
• White Leghorn
• Marans
• Plymouth Rock
• Rhode Island Red
• Silkie
• Sussex

For more details, be sure to check out our guide to the best chicken breeds for backyard coops for breakdown of these top breeds by appearance, temperament, and egg production and color. (Hint: if you want those pretty blue eggs, the Araucana is the chicken breed for you!) Can’t make up your mind? Mixing different breeds in a single coop is no problem at all and will make your flock all the more alluring.

“Buying chicks online is a safe way to bring hens home,” says chicken expert and author Kathy Shea Mormino. But she advises to only purchase from a hatchery certified by the National Poultry Improvement Plan, such as Iowa’s Murray McMurray Hatchery. Local farm-supply stores, such as Tractor Supply Co., also often have chicks available seasonally, although usually with fewer breed varieties. Psst: Hens don’t start producing eggs until they are approximately 20 to 24 weeks old. If you don’t want to wait that long, consider a “started pullet,” which is a hen that’s 15 to 22 weeks old. Once accustomed to her new surroundings, she’ll begin laying eggs very soon.

No! “It’s a common misconception that you need a rooster in order for a hen to lay eggs,” says chicken expert and author Melissa Caughey. The truth is that a male is needed only if you want eggs fertilized to then hatch as baby chicks. In fact, while the thought of waking up to a country call may sound charming, there are definitely downsides to having a rooster. Having a rooster in a backyard flock is generally not recommended because they can become aggressive to hens and people. Be aware that determining the sex of a baby chick is difficult and mistakes can be made. Want to get rid of an accidental fella? Contact a poultry science department at your local college.

The answer is complicated. Per Lisa, a chicken lays an egg roughly once every 26 hours, which is roughly once a day. So, to get 12 per day, you’d need 12 hens. That said, numbers will also vary based on a hen’s age and the season of the year. “A hen doesn’t start laying until she’s about 5 months old. That first year, she will lay an egg almost every day,” Lisa explains. “The following fall she will lose her feathers to grow in new ones for the winter.” (This is known as molting.) “The combination of molting and shorter days—hens need about 14 to 16 hours of daylight to release an egg yolk—can cause production to drop. She will start laying again the spring, but each successive year, egg production decreases by about 20 percent.” Once a hen reaches six or seven years old, many stop laying altogether.

Whether you flock toward a rustic red barn or a French château, these are the six key elements needed for a safe and happy henhouse.

1. Nesting Box
   Hens crave privacy and darkness when laying eggs, so plan for at least one nesting box for every four or five hens. A box that measures 14"W-by-14"H x 12"D will give even a big gal plenty of room. Add a door along the exterior wall of each box for easier egg collection.
2. Box Bedding
   An inexpensive, soft material such as hay or pin shavings offers a comfortable spot and easier cleaning. To keep things extra fresh, mix in a bedding blend such as The Chicken Chick’s “Spruce the Coop Herbal Fusion” or Fresh Egg Daily’s “Coop Confetti.”
3. Roosting Bar
   Chickens prefer to sleep high off the ground. Give them a perch to catch those ZZZs with a wooden roosting bar. (Wood is preferable to plastic or metal as they are usually too slippery for the birds to properly grip.)
4. Dropping Board
   This catchall term refers to a board, pan, or box placed below the roosting bar to collect and contain manure, making daily cleanups easier. (On a related note: It’s optional, but vinyl peel-and-stick wallpaper makes wiping down the wall behind the roost easier too.)
5. Hanging Feeder & Waterer
   Keep both off the ground to preserve freshness, and place inside the coop to keep out other unwanted animals.
6. Enclosed Run
   Give your girls a spot to stretch their legs while staying protected from predators. Use 1/2" welded wire (also called hardware cloth) with at least a 1.2 mm gauge to ensure strength and durability.

Modern conveniences like automatic doors and feeders make it much easier to get away for a bit without having to worry too much about your flock, provided your coop and attached run are thoroughly predator-proof. “They won’t overeat their feed, and as long as they have plenty of water and are safe in their pen, they’ll be just fine,” says Lisa. That said, if you’ll be gone multiple weeks, consider asking a neighbor or friend to check in once a day to collect eggs, which could otherwise be accidentally broken or eaten by the flock if they’re left for extended periods of time.

Can my kids get sick from playing with chickens?

Chickens can harbor dangerous bacteria such as salmonella and E. coli, so “washing your hands thoroughly or using an alcohol-based gel after all contact with poultry or eggs is the best way to protect yourself,” says veterinarian Dr. Victoria Drouet.

I have a dog. And a cat. Can my chickens safely coexist with them?

Family pets and a gaggle of hens may first seem at odds, but there’s hope. To ensure things get off on the right paw, try supervised visits, preferably with your dog or cat on a leash, for the first few weeks. Take note: If your pet shows strong aggression during the first encounter, it will likely stay that way.

How long do the eggs stay fresh, and do they have to be refrigerated?

While it is best practice to collect them daily, eggs have a natural biofilm that keeps them fresh outdoors for several weeks. This holds true if they are displayed in a pretty bowl on your counter, too. Once an egg is washed, however, it should be refrigerated right away.

Want to learn more about raising chickens? We recommend these informative and easy to understand books by our favorite chicken experts: